Lima and Puno - The Perez Family in Peru, Part III

Here's the third installment of The Perez Family in Peru, written by the one and only Michael J. Thanks Pops for letting me take a break from the updates and play editor for a while (note the commentary at the bottom). Enjoy!

After our three nights in Huanchaco we headed to Trujillo to hop a flight to Lima, arriving in the late afternoon. This was basically our third time going to the Lima airport and it was starting to look very familiar.

 

We took our 30-minute cab ride to our hotel La Posada del Parque, and upon our arrival met Jamie’s boyfriend, Nathan, and his parents Debby and Kevin as well as his brother Isaac. A long time ago when we were picking a time we’d be visiting, Jamie said Nathan’s family was going to be in Peru about the same time and maybe we could meet up with them. A few months before the trip we started corresponding with Debby and Kevin to talk about places to stay and visit. Soon we were exchanging emails resulting in a great itinerary for our trip. 

This place was in a nice area and the room was nice; however, when Chris was booking it she had asked if they had a room for 4 people. They said they did. What we think happened, was that they put two extra beds in a regular room – the result was a very cramped spot which lead to some very “close quarters”, Perez family hi-jinks and hilarity…most of which (well pretty much all of it) is too juvenile to print in this blog.  

Too close for comfort? Jamie re-evaluates the room accomodations in Lima.

We went out to a nice dinner, then headed out to a water fountain park that Jamie and Nathan had heard about called Circuito Magica del Agua. It was pretty cool and made for some nice pictures. Of course when Jamie and Nathan walked “into” one of the attractions, we ALL grabbed our cameras to officially document their relationship J I really have to hand it to Jamie and Nathan – not only did they have to meet each others families, but they had us both at the same time. 

Jamie and Nathan at one of the fountains. "Look at myyy camera, guys!"

Posing with a fountain.

Me and Marlee walking through one of the water features.

The next day we headed to Chaclacayo to meet Jamie and Nathan’s training host families for lunch. We took a combi (or collectivio) on a 2 ½ hour ride from the city. This ride made the one in Huanchaco seem like luxury. It was INSANE – from extreme weaving at high speeds to stopping on a dime and then crawling in the local traffic inches away from other vehicles…WOW! And, of course, the cobrador (barker as I like to say), did not disappoint. When we were stuck in traffic, he’d jump out and try to goad people into hoping on. Folks that know me, know that I’m a terrible passenger (sorry Marlee – she currently has her driver’s permit), but I had to completely detach myself from this ride and took on a “gee, I wouldn’t try that at home,” and a “wow, that was a really good maneuver.” 

Eventually, we made it Chaclacayo, the origin of Jamie and Nathan becoming friends during training – Jamie’s host mom is Nathan’s host mom’s daughter-in-law and their PCVs live in the same house. They were both a delight. We had a great lunch with Trinidad (Nathan’s host mom) and Rebeca (Jamie’s host mom) and Rebeca’s youngest daughter, Gianella. The house was lovely, and there was even a tienda (a little store) owned and run by Trinidad in the front of the house. 

Jamie and her first host mom, Rebeca.

So many families!

The Chaclacayo House - Trinidad and Gianella in front

The next day, Jamie's birthday, we headed out to the airport to catch a flight to Puno. Once again, the familiar surroundings of the Lima Airport…one more stop and we might try to get a loyalty card from the airport coffee shop.

Happy Birthday, Jame!

Puno is right on the banks of Lake Titicaca. As I mentioned in the previous post, it was the Peruvian winter when we visited, and being at an altitude of 3,800 meters (that’s about 12,500 feet to us non-metric folks) it was cold. In fact, this was the coldest place we stayed. When the sun was out, not much of a problem, but in the shadows, or at night…it was COLD! So, we dressed in layers and bought alpaca scarves, sweaters and hats. 

On our first full day, we took a trip out to the Islas Uros on Lake Titicaca. There are more than 40 floating islands made by layering totora reed atop root clods. New reeds are laid weekly as those below decompose. Families live on these islands, make goods, work together, sell their goods and divide the profits.  

View from the island

Las Islas Uros scene made of reeds

Debby and Isaac hanging out on the island.

La Familia Perez on the banks of the floating island.

Jamie and Marlee taking a siesta

Debby and Nathan getting a better view of Uros.

Our hotel, the Casona Colon Inn, was really nice, probably the fanciest place we stayed. No central heat, but there were space heaters in our room that we used whenever we were inside. We could really tell the altitude was affecting us here as we became winded walking up the stairs to our rooms - they were on the 3^rd floor.

Puno was a nice little town, with a walking kind of main street with shops, restaurants and bars. One place we nicknamed the “hipster” café (I think there was some reference to it being such a place in one of the guide books). We actually went there three times during our stay. The first of those times when all 8 of us were there, they brought the bill and it appeared to be a little short. When we asked about it, the waitress said she didn’t charge our “guia” and pointed at Chris. She thought Chris was our tour guide and it was their practice to comp the guides. We had a good laugh at this one for the rest of the vacation.*

Hipsters

Puno was also the start of our Birthday celebrations. First up was Jamie, then a few days later it was Debby’s birthday, and later in the trip was Chris’s.

Jamie and Nathan toast to Jamie's 24th birthday at the Rock-n-Roll Bar.

Later on during our stay in Puno, the 8 of us rented a private boat to take a 2½ hour ride to La Isla Taquile. The ride became very bumpy because of the wind and choppy water conditions. Chris, Jamie and Marlee all got seasick. Because of the conditions, we had to dock on the side of the island where there was a 500+ stair climb. Nathan and his family were all good to go, with no negative symptoms fromm the boat ride and headed up the stairs. Jamie and I followed when she felt a little better and eventually caught up to them. Marlee and Chris decided to wait quite a bit longer and had an adventure of their own once they felt better about moving. 

Welcome to the Island of Taquile

Starting the trek up the stairs 

Marlee and Chris post The Seasick Taquile Adevnture 

It is customary on Taquile to ask permission before taking anyone’s picture. Chris asked this man if she could take his photo and he was very willing, but he would not look at the camera.  

While we were eating in restaurants in Puno we noticed they would usually play Andean music featuring pan pipes or flutes. We would be tapping along, and all of a sudden notice that we recognized the songs. Of particular note there were lots of Beatles songs, but what really struck us was how many times we heard the Eagles’ “Hotel California” done in pan flutes. 

This guy jumped on our boat and played an acoustic version of "Hey Jude" accompanied by pan pipes before we left for Taquile.

The whole restaurant joined us in singing happy birthday to Debby, accompanied by our lunchtime entertainer. 

Next up, we head to Cuzco via luxury train…all aboard.

*This seemed to be a common occurrence as my mom is the most Peruvian-looking of the group. Heading to El Circuito Mágico de Las Aguas, we stopped to ask a police officer for some directions. Though Nathan, who's basically fluent, and I (not fluent but I get by) were both speaking to the officer in spanish, the officer turned to Marlee and my mom and started given them the directions, neither of whom knew what the heck he was saying.